What matters for anyone with a bit of technical expertise is the code editor. You’ll be writing the design up by hand, so any plain text editor will do. Here’s my advice, don’t look for (or rather, limit yourself to) editors that sport fancy HTML support. Good editing and syntax highlighting matter. Everything else is with your browser or your head.
alrighty, cool. I did actually find an HTML editor that is a widget in Opera. The HTML is hand-written (just as if you were to do it in notepad or wordpad). The CSS can be automated, and let's you fill in what you need. I cringed when I first looked at it, but it
does let you read the actual CSS code after you've decided what you want. So I'd still be able to learn CSS and modify the code by hand as with any simple text editor. It's a handy little tool.